Sewing Review - The Cap Sleeve Vest by The Assembly Line

Sewn and written by Caroline van Deventer

a white lady stood in front of a grey background wearing a toffee coloured corduroy jacket.

I have wanted to sew this pattern since it was released earlier in the year.  It just looked like such a great casual jacket and I could see it easily layered with a merino jumper and jeans or with smarter trousers and a top on my way to work. Perfect for days where you need something warm to wear but don’t need a full sleeve! 

a sideways image of a white woman wearing a pink flowery dress, black tights, against a black background.

The vest features hidden front pockets with large flaps at the front, large snap fasteners and depending on your preference, it can either be lined or unlined. 

the back of a lady with a toffee coloured cord jacket

Pattern The Cap Sleeve Vest  By The Assembly Line

line drawing of the cap sleeve vest

Size - Medium

Fabric6 Wale Cord in Toffee (main fabric) and Viscose Crepe in Canope Ochre (lining)

Notions

Skill Level - Intermediate plus

Maker - Caroline for a store sample

Skills Used  

  • Inserting a lining
  • Inserting pocket with flaps
  • Attaching heavy duty snaps

Review 

Although I made this as a sample for the store's mid-winter display, as soon as I tried it on I knew it would be a delightful coat to wear.  I love the final result, particularly the texture of the cord combined with the print of the lining.  I will be making one for myself as soon as I can - I already have the fabric ready to go!

Tips for Prepping the Project.

For this project I made the lined version.  I didn't finish any of the internal seams of my fabric, but you may want to finish the seams if you are working with a fabric that frays a lot.

Interfacing

I used two different types of interfacing for this project, I wanted a structured collar and our woven mid-weight interfacing was perfect for the job.  Interfacing is also needed on the placket and the pockets.  Here I wanted a softer look so used a mid-weight knit interfacing which helps the fabric retain its drape. 

Cutting the Fabric

The pattern instructions shows the fabric layout for the main fabric but not for the lining.  I needed 1.3m of fabric for the lining compared to the main fabric (which required 2.3m) so laid out the pattern pieces as seen in the photo below.  As you can see I rotated one of the patterns up side down.  If you have fabric that is directional you will definitely need more fabric.  I would suggest using the amount suggest for the main fabric to ensure you can fit it in.  

layout picture with paper patterns on the fabricThe Project

At the start of the project, you are instructed to iron the hems, this is where my hot hemmer came into its own!  Ironing viscose can sometimes be tricky because it is slippery, but here the hemmer just makes it a lot easier to be accurate!  We have a handy guide on how to use it, although it is really not complex!

fabric with palm fronds on it on a black background with a hot hemmer being used on it.

To ensure the collar was even I used the method that I wrote about for The Oversized Shirt, marking the stitch line with chalk and using that as a sewing guide to ensure that the collar was even on both sides. 

When I was sewing the flaps for the pockets I found that the combination of corduroy and viscose crepe shifts and moves.  To combat this I pinned it heavily and also found sewing in the direction of the nap (so it feels smooth as you stroke the fabric.) helped. 

At the side seams at the underarm point, we recommend clipping the corner as close as you can to the stitch line (as shown below) to help the fabric sit better. a close up of the corner of sleeve The lining is loose at the bottom and not attached to the hem. I prefer my linings to be anchored so used French Tacks at the side seams. This keeps the lining from moving around too much but as it allows some movement and it stops it from pulling the body of the coat out of shape during wear.

a close up picture of a french tack in the lining of the jacket

Conclusion

a white lady grinning at the picture wearing a toffee coloured coat and clutching at the collar

This is a great pattern and I can’t wait to make my own. If you aren’t lining it it would be a fairly quick sew, the lining does add time to the make, but also it is worth it as it adds a certain luxury to the coat. I love a coat that has an interesting lining. 

The corduroy is luxurious, and easier to sew with than I was expecting. The feeling of it when you put it on is lovely! It's silky and soft and has a lovely sheen to it. 

A white woman wearing a pink wool jumper and a toffee coloured cord jacket

I can understand why The Assembly Line has such a solid fan base. They just produce great patterns which result in great garments.  

A white woman clutching her scarf to try and keep herself warm while looking skywards

If you want to find out more about corduroy fabrics, we have a handy guide with lots of tips and tricks to help you sew with this beautiful fabric.

bolts of different coloured corduroy fabric lying on each other

2 comments

Hi Tryphena, I am sure we will be able to help, if you email your problems to info@missmaude.co.nz and address it to me I will see what I can do to help!

thanks Caroline

Caroline from Miss Maude July 26, 2022

I am having real trouble with the cap sleeve cuff – do you have any troubleshooting tips?

Tryphena July 26, 2022

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