Happy New Year!! We're kicking ours off with a bang hosting our Annual Remnant Sale (in store only) - where 30% of total remnant sales will be donated to Life Flight. Life Flight includes the national Life Flight Air Ambulance service and the Wellington Westpac Rescue Helicopter. This is a vital service flying critically ill and injured patients throughout New Zealand.
Living in regional New Zealand, we at Miss Maude are acutely aware of the lifesaving value of Life Flight - we all too often hear the 'whirring sound of hope' above us as the Westpac Rescue Helicopter responds to car crashes, farming incidents, search and rescue missions, and time-critical medical conditions; as well as the transfer of patients from the regions to specialised hospital care only available in some of our major cities. Read about some of their flights helping New Zealanders here.
For those of you who have attended our previous Remnant Sales - this one is a little different. We're changing things up and will have remnants available in store over a two week period. There's no need to rush - you'll have plenty of time to make the most of the bargains, and we'll be replenishing the remnants regularly! Add us to your itinerary if you are travelling!
Remnants are not normally available, so this will be your chance to grab some gorgeous fabrics at heavily discounted prices. Most remnants are 1.2m - 3m in length. With less of a rush - there will be time for you to peruse the store, plan your project and the team will be here to help you out if you need.
]]>We're delighted to be able to offer sewing patterns in PDF format! First up is the full Merchant & Mills pattern range. If you are new to this format of pattern - read on and we'll explain.
A PDF sewing pattern is a digital file that you can either print out at home, or have it printed professionally for you. When you purchase a PDF sewing pattern from Miss Maude, you will receive access to it as soon as we have received payment for your order. This is normally immediately, so it's a great option if you need it in a hurry!
PDF sewing patterns will come with the following files:
The instructions and A4 files can be printed out on standard domestic printers - always make sure to print at 100% scale. The pattern will have a test square for you to measure to check that you have printed the pattern at the correct scale.
The A4 patterns sheets then need to be taped or glued together like tiles to creat the entire pattern. Depending on the style of garment, there might be anywhere from 25 to 80 A4 sheets to stick together. Below is a part example of an A4 tiled pattern:
This can be a little time consuming, but you can get started straight away if you have access to a printer.
The third file is an A0 Copy Shop file. This file needs to be printed on a wide format printer - you can find these at commercial print shops, or we can do it for you here at Miss Maude. A0 is 841 x 1189 mm, so there is no need to tape anything together!
Now that we offer a wide format printing service - you can purchase your pattern, have it printed and sent out to you in one easy step. This means that our sewing patterns with PDF format options will never be out of stock, and are always available to you as printed patterns ready to use straight out of the packet. Nice.
Our printing service includes an A0 printed copy of the pattern on quality 80gsm paper, a printed instruction booklet, and a beautiful card envelope to store your pattern.
Simply select 'PDF + Printed Sewing Pattern' as your pattern format when you purchase your pattern.
Once you have purchased a PDF sewing pattern from Miss Maude you will be emailed a download link to access your files. This link will remain active for 2 months, so we recommend you download your pattern file(s) and store them on your computer or drive. You can also access your downloads in your account section of this website.
We also offer A0 wide format printing service if you would like us to print PDF patterns that you have purchased elsewhere. Simply send us your PDF pattern file following the instructions here.
Please note:
20 Nov 23. We won't be having any here - find out why...
]]>Discounts, Discounts Everywhere...
I don’t know about you - but for the past week or so, I’ve been bombarded with ‘Black Friday discount this’, ‘Black Friday discount that’. And to be honest, it’s not rocking my world…
For those of you who’ve been following us for a while, you’ll know that discount sales at Miss Maude are rare and exotic beasts. This is because we stock our shelves with products that we love, haberdashery that delights, fabrics that make us smile and yarn that brings us joy. And it is this that we want to share with you.
We want every purchase you make here to be one that you really love, not one made just because it is cheap or on sale.
We want you to be delighted when you walk out our door, or open up your lovingly packed online order. And if for whatever reason you’re not - please let us know about it!
Since opening our physical store in Greytown Village, we’ve decided to hold an in store annual remnant sale (January)- which enables us to donate to charity. So far we’ve donated thousands to well deserving charities close to our heart (you can see where our donations go here). Thank you for helping us make this happen.
This is our thing - where we can help spread joy a little further.
So, please don’t be waiting for our ‘Best of the best Black Friday, Cyber Monday discount of the century sale’ …. It’s just not going to arrive. But we do have a little thank you for you at the end of this post.
If you’ve spotted something you love, or have plans for a spring/summer make. Do it. We’re sure you will be delighted.
To help you plan your makes we now have a Wishlist Planner on our website - you can create mood boards, project plan, create gift lists, and share ideas with friends!
And, of course if you need a little extra help or advice - just give us a ring, flick us an email, or come visit us in the store.
Thanks for supporting our small business. It means the world.
As a little way of saying thanks - every full price purchase made between now and the end of the month (30th Nov 23), will earn you double reward points.
Emma xx
Happy Making :-)
]]>Here's a quick roundup of some of our top picks for making this year. Something for the little people in your world, for him, for her. The whole family!.
Mouche & Friends is the most delightful knitting book - included are patterns and detailed knitting instructions for 12 knitted toy animals, plus their garments and accessories. What a joy to receive on Christmas day - a new heirloom to be treasured for many years to come.
The patterns have been designed to be knit in 4ply / fingering weight yarn, and as such are a perfect match for soft Along Avec Anna pure merino. The Along Avec Anna yarns come in a wonderful palette that is just perfect for Mouche and her friends!
10,000 Hats - a hand knitted hat - always a wonderful gift to give that is warmly received. If your family is anything like ours, hats often get lost. It seems like we're always having to replenish! While, perhaps knitting 10,000 hats might seem a little excessive - this knitting pattern book by the same name is fun, interactive and makes choosing a new and original hat for everyone easy and lots of fun!
The book is a flip book, enabling you to mix and match the crown, body and rim of each hat. Your imagination really is your only limit!
Designed for DK / 8ply yarn, we've got lots of lovely options available - or perhaps you've got a skein or two in your stash waiting to be used?
Lover of hand knitted socks? Always well received and a super portable project to keep your hands busy. Excellent while commuting to work; waiting back stage at the school / dance show; or while sharing a cuppa and a knatter with friends.
We've got a small but beautiful range of sock knitting patterns and sock wool yarn for you to find the perfect match.
Or how about a gorgeous cowl - a beautiful addition to any wardrobe and a relaxing knit not having to worry too much about the finished size. We're big fans of the Cobbles Cowl by Elizabeth Smith. Designed for soft and squishy Malabrigo Mecha, but also equally as nice in the lighter weight 10ply Malabrigo Rios. We've just finished knitting one in Rios - it has a lovely drape and is a great weight for chilly summer evenings.
With the promise of sunny days (and burning sun down here in Aotearoa!), keep the sun at bay with a one of a kind Lucent Visor. Pair it with the Lucent Visor kit, and you'll have all the haberdashery you need - all you're left to do is choose the perfect fabric and get sewing!
A fun match with our Ditsy Japanese Poplin Fabric, or lovely in classic Washer Heavy Weight Linen
Something for him? These loads of inspiration and projects in the Gentleman's Wardrobe sewing book. How about a small stash busting wallet? An oilskin messenger bag? Or a classic shirt paired with one of our pure cotton shirting fabrics.
Summer pyjamas are another great 'don't-have-to-worry-about-the-fit-too-much' project. The Merchant & Mills Winnie Pyjamas come in two size ranges and are a perfect match for our light weight Indian Hand Printed Fabrics.
And for the person who has a lot of gear to cart - the Jack Tar Bag is a classic favourite. Often described as a tardis - this bag seems to fit just about everything! Make one in rugged oilskin, or perhaps a denim or linen for a softer look? We've also got handy Jack Tar haberdashery sets which includes the leather handles, and hardware required to whip up your own tardis!
While we are very realistic about how busy life gets, if we can find a little time, it really is quite satisfying to be able to use our hands to craft something unique and special for our loved ones. Most years there are grand visions of hand crafted gifts for all - reality is that if just one gift is handmade, then that's a success!
We love giving handmade so much that we've created a dedicated Gift section to our blog - here we've curated gift ideas, free patterns and a little inspiration for gift giving. Discover more in our Gift Ideas for makers and from makers!
And don't forget to be easy on yourself - if you only get as far as ideas and then run out of time to make....remember, it's the thought that counts! :-)
Perhaps wrap a little collection of supplies with a Makers greeting card promising to craft something with love over the coming days or weeks?
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We always have lots of fun working with visitors at the store to help them decide on just the right supplies for their next make. The counter gets piled with fabrics, yarns, patterns and haberdashery as various items are auditioned against each other. Some decisions are quick, others take a little longer!
Knowing you can't always pay a visit in person, we've just added a Wishlist Planner to our website to help you browse the (virtual) store and plan your next make with ease.
Make the Wishlist Planner work for YOU!
What we love about the Wishlist Planner is that you can create multiple lists - one for each project! And you can also share any of your lists with friends and family - perfect for getting a second opinion, or perhaps a wee nudge for a future gift?
When you are ready, you can easily add any of your wishlist items to your shopping cart - once your order arrives with us, we work to get it out to you as soon as possible! (We aim to pick and pack your order ready for our courier within one working day of receiving full payment)
10 Ways to Make the Most of Wishlist:
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Getting Started!
Your Wishlist Planner is simple and easy to use - but here's a couple of tips to get you started. Have a play and see how you can make it work for you. And, of course, if you need any help, please just get in touch with us at the store.
You can add any product to your Wishlist Planner - either by tapping the small heart on collection pages (as image above), or on each product page (as in the image below)
You can find your Wishlist Planner in the top right of the website (it will display as a small 🤍 on phones and tablets when held profile)
Save Your Wishlist Planner - all you need to do is log into your account (or create a new one - little person icon at top right of website) and your Wishlist Planner will be saved and be ready for you each time you visit the store.
Share any list by clicking on the share link in top right of each Wishlist (three dots in triangle shape)
We've sewn the popular Vali Dress from Pattern Fantastique to show off our Cotton Lawn Solids Collection - a light weight (65gsm) smooth and crisp cotton lawn. Perfect for spring time and summer sewing, available in a beautiful range of colours.
With plenty of gathers and volume, the Vali Dress is a great match for this light weight fabric. The dress would also look amazing in a bold print, but we love how a solid colour shows off all the design details. Something that the Pattern Fantastique patterns excel at.
Pattern - Vali Dress Pattern by Pattern Fantastique
Size - 12.
Arna's bust = 95cm, Emma's bust = 97cm
Fabric - 2.7m from our Cotton Lawn Solids Collection, Peacock colourway.
Notions - thread, light weight knit interfacing, 6mm plush elastic
Skill Level - Intermediate - Advanced
Maker - Aimee
Skills Used -
Pattern and Instructions
The sewing pattern includes two length options - a dress or a top. You can also choose between two neckline options - we've made the deeper V-neck with two ties.
The image below is the top version where the V-neck finishes at the bottom of the yoke.
The pattern has been rated as skill level 'intermediate'. The yoke and gathers are relatively involved, so we think that this sewing pattern sits at the more advanced end of the intermediate spectrum.
Sleeves
To create the volume in the sleeve the pattern piece is somewhat larger than 'normal' and it is very easy to confuse the front from back - so make sure to carefully mark all notches! Note there is an extra notch on the sleeve back.
The instructions also recommend that you make an extra mark on the fabric (with tailors chalk, or a safety pin) to mark the back. Once the sleeve is gathered it is difficult to see the notches. These extra marks will make life a lot easier when it comes to sew the sleeve in!
The sleeves are gathered at the hem with narrow elastic - we used our plush elastic as it is lovely and soft, so a great pairing with the light weight fabric, and also very comfortable around the arm. We used a bodkin to thread the elastic.
Both Emma and Arna have relatively wide shoulders and normally have to make a wide shoulder adjustment to patterns. It also means that styles with a lot of volume (pleats, gathers, etc) at the shoulder area can seem a little too bulky for them.
The proportions of the yoke and sleeve head get a big thumbs up from us - our shoulders are nestled within the fullness of the sleeve head giving the drama and glam but without excess bulk.
The ties are made from the cotton lawn - a Loop Turner is a really useful tool to get the job done. If you are using a thicker fabric or perhaps for a little interest, you could use a contrast ribbon or cotton tape instead.
We think the pockets for this dress are little on the small side, next time we would definitely make them bigger. As they stand at the moment, they are great for a lipstick, but not too much else!
We've sewn a size 12 dress which has a finished length of 114cm from the shoulder seam to the centre front (a little longer at the back). The image below is Nita-Jane of Pattern Fantastique - looking elegant with the longer midi length.
Our store sample is shorter on Emma and Arna. Arna is 166cm tall and you can see the hem ends approx 8cm below her knee. For Emma, who is 174cm, the hem hits just at the bottom of her knee.
If you want to lengthen the pattern, we recommend you do so at a point below the pocket. For details we have a step by step tutorial on how to lengthen a pattern piece here - we used our new Pattern Graph & Tracing paper. The 1cm grid on the paper makes it a breeze and ensures the pattern pieces are correctly aligned with each other.
If you lengthen the pattern, don't forget to purchase extra fabric. You will need an extra: 2 x added length.
Fabric
Cotton lawn is a versatile fabric - and a store favourite for spring/summer sewing. It is stable - so easy to work with and sew. It is a plain weave, is smooth and slightly crisp so holds its shape well, but also light enough to have enough drape for a style like this.
This pattern/fabric pairing gives lots of volume and a bold silhouette, but without the weight. The fabric is light enough that doesn't swamp the wearer while also giving plenty of room to move!
Perfect for a warm summer day or to layer in winter.
Emma has layered the dress over a warm top and added a scarf for a little extra warmth. Throw on some tights and boots for a great trans-seasonal outfit.
We also love that it is a beautiful and cost effective material that can be sewn in stunning garments.
Aimee loved making this dress and found it to be a really interesting make with lots of lovely details! Both Aimee and Emma have added it to their personal lists of things to make and I hope it won't be too long before we see them wearing their own versions in store!
On the Vali Dress Pattern Page there is a tab on the left hand side titled reviews, click on the plus sign to enlarge the tab and there is a form that you can complete to submit your review or any of our patterns.
]]>One of the joys of sewing our own clothes is being able to make things just how we like. Often that means making things a little shorter or longer. If you are wanting to alter the length of a pattern piece that is not a simple square/rectangle you'll want to make the length adjustment somewhere in the middle of the pattern piece. Doing so ensures the hem line stays the same circumference and you maintain the overall design style of the garment.
This tutorial shows you how to lengthen a pattern piece - we've used the Vali Dress as an example. You can see our Vali Dress pattern review here.
If you lengthen a pattern, don't forget you will likely need to purchase extra fabric. You will normally need twice the added length extra in fabric.
You will need:
Step 1. Determine how much you want to lengthen your pattern piece by and where you need to add the length. Some patterns will have lines already marked on the pattern piece to indicate ideal areas to lengthen or shorten.
If not, make sure to select a point in your pattern that won't adversely impact the fit or style of the garment. Take into account key fit and style points such as hip, waist, bust, knees, elbows.
For example if you have a long torso, you might need to add length above the waist line. Conversely if you want to make a dress/top longer and it fits well through the bust and waist - make sure you lengthen the pattern below the waist or hip line.
If you are looking for a fantastic reference guide on fit alterations, we highly recommend Kenneth D King's Smart Fitting Solutions
For our example, we want to lengthen the Vali Dress - we like the fit, but just want some extra length through the leg area. We've chosen to lengthen the pattern at a point below the pocket.
The images below show step by step how to do this - we used our new Pattern Graph & Tracing paper. The 1cm grid on the paper makes it a breeze and ensures the pattern pieces are correctly aligned with each other.
Step 2. Line up the centre front with the grid on the pattern paper. Mark your lengthen (or shorten) line at right angles to the centre front - orange line in image above.
Step 3. Cut along the lengthen line, then seperate the two pattern pieces by the distance that you want to lengthen your dress. Make sure to keep the centre front of each piece lined up on the same grid line. Also make sure to keep both pattern pieces parallel to each other.
Step 4. Re-draw the side seam of the pattern piece. Here we have a straight line from just below the pocket to the beginning of the hem curve.
Step 5. Cut out your new pattern piece. Do the same to the Back pattern piece, and voila! You're good to go.
]]>Time for a little celebration and birthday treats! (scroll down for the details) It's hard to believe that we've been sharing our joy of making for eight years now - and oh what a joy it has been so far! Here's to many more! Thank you for sticking around and making our wee business what it is. xx
We spent our first four years online only, before opening our beautiful store here in the Village four years ago. And we are so pleased that we did! The photo above is from our Celebration Sale when we first opened the retail store - that weekend was so much fun and an absolute delight to connect face to face for the first time with so many passionate makers. Such joy.
Since then we've welcomed so many of you here, and continue to enjoy helping you from afar too!
For a little more about our journey, we've got a couple of articles in the blog archives - How and Why we Started and a little glimpse behind the scenes
With the depths of winter demanding a bevy of warm layers, sewing a woollen blazer seemed like an obvious choice after receiving a beautiful collection of limited edition Yorkshire Tweeds. With the unpacking, I quickly cut a length off for myself and have been slowly working on the Heather Blazer over the past couple of weeks.
The Heather Blazer has been designed as a great entry into the world of sewing blazers, and I couldn't agree more. The fit is relaxed and the tailoring simple. Making for a relatively quick project for this style of garment. Double thumbs up from me!
Pattern - Heather Blazer, Friday Pattern Company
Size - Large. Emma's Bust = 96cm
Fabric - Wool Tweed Coating with Viscose Lawn Lining. (we no longer have these fabrics available, but you can see what we currently have in stock here: wool fabrics and lining fabrics)
I used 2.1m of the main fabric and lining fabric - at 150cm wide, this is 10cm extra than the pattern called for to allow for pattern matching the checks.
I used 1.4m of the viscose lining at 140cm wide.
Notions -
Thread
Woven Mid Weight interfacing
Mid-weight knit interfacing
Just So Shank Button in Khaki Green
I also added shoulder pads and sleeve foam roll, however these were an optional extra that I chose to add.
Tools -
Tailor's Clapper
Walking Foot for my sewing machine
Skill Level - Intermediate
Maker - Emma
Skills Used -
REVIEW
Fit - I made a size large using my bust measurement as the guide (96cm). I added 7mm width to the shoulders - this is a standard adjustment that I need to make for most garments.
The main body is boxy with only a little shaping, while the sleeves are two piece with a more slender fit. Given that I lift bolts of fabric for a living, I find that the sleeves are a little more slender than ideal for me. The blazer fits well and is comfortable with a shirt or single layer merino, but starts to get a bit tight on the arm if wearing a jumper. In saying that, the blazer is wonderfully warm, so doesn't need much layering underneath.
If I make this again (which I probably will in linen for summer), I will add a little more ease to the sleeves.
Fabric - Pure wool fabric is a treat to sew with. This particular tweed is a relatively tight weave, so the fabric is stable and easy to handle. At 280gsm, it is about as heavy as we'd recommend for a blazer. We do have heavier wools in store, but they would be better suited to a coat where there tends to be a little more ease to cater to the heavier fabrics.
Pre-washing: This fabric comes with a Dry Clean only recommendation from the mill. Because of this, I didn't pre-wash the fabric - instead I steam pressed the entire piece before cutting out. This was to remove any shrinkage that might occur. During construction all seams get well steamed, so I didn't want any surprises at that stage (I've learnt this lesson the hard way!!).
Construction - The instructions are clear and really do take any apprehension out of sewing a blazer for the first time. There is also a link to a really helpful video on how to sew the lining at the hem for a neat finish.
As I was sewing with checks, I wanted to pattern match. I used a walking foot on my sewing machine to help with this - this really does make a big difference, especially with thicker fabric such as this Yorkshire Tweed!
I wouldn't be without my Tailor's Clapper for this project. They are great for achieving wonderfully flat seams without the risk of scorching the fabric. Using a clapper really does elevate the finished result. We've written a blog post going into detail on what exactly is a Tailor's Clapper and how to use it.
The pattern recommends woven interfacing through the front of the blazer, back shoulder and under collar, and knit interfacing for the facing and top collar. I feel like the blazer is quite stiff through the front, and if doing it again with a wool fabric like this, I'd used the knit interfacing on all pieces that need it. This would result in a slightly softer look at the front of the blazer.
Additions - I decided to add shoulder pads and sleeve roll foam for a slightly bolder look. I'm a big fan of defined shoulders....I'm sure there is something in that if you start to dig? Child of the 80's, power suits, feminism, stability...ok, lets not. Back to sewing!
Shoulder pads are not called for in the Heather Blazer, and to be honest they aren't really needed in this circumstance. This fabric is relatively thick for a blazer so I found it held it's shape well on the shoulder. (Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo of the blazer before I added the shoulder pads for you to see).
Shoulder pads help to define the shoulder, and in combination with the sleeve roll foam, they help the fabric at the top of the sleeve (the sleeve head) to sit nicely. The sleeve roll foam gets stitched into the seam allowance at the sleeve head.
Shoulder pads and sleeve roll foam can be useful tools in achieving a good fit - even if you are not a fan of power suits! The shoulder pads we currently have in stock are not too thick, so only give a subtle lift.
Conclusion - I really like the end result, and keen to give it another go in a lighter weight fabric for wearing in warmer months. We also have a few other blazer sewing patterns available, so very keen to give them a go to compare and contrast. A blazer is a hard working garment - it can be dressed up or down, and can quickly elevate an outfit.
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A Tailor's Clapper is a simple but effective tool to have in your sewing kit. Once you've had the pleasure of using one, you'll wonder how you ever did without! But what is a Tailor's Clapper you ask?
What is a Tailor's Clapper?
It is a piece of hardwood, shaped and sanded so it is smooth and easy to hold. It is used for pressing while dressmaking or tailoring resulting in lovely crisp, flat seams.
A Tailor's Clapper was originally used in tailoring (hence the name) because of how well it works on woollen fabrics while preventing scorching the fabric. Over the years the humble wooden clapper has made its way into dressmaking and is also popular with quilters - a well pressed seam is important for an accurate quilt.
The team here at Miss Maude find it invaluable for making Jeans , tailoring, sewing coats and jackets, when working with thick fabrics, when sewing delicate fabrics and also those of use who moonlight at quilters love it when piecing quilt tops!
How to use a Tailor's Clapper?
It is a very simple tool to use. Finger press the seam open, apply plenty of steam to your seam (without the iron touching the fabric) and then press the clapper to the seam. Hold the clapper on the seam until all the steam has been absorbed and the seam cooled - normally five seconds or so. Have an experiment and see what works on the seam you are pressing - also check to make sure your fabric can handle the heat and steam. Thicker, bulkier fabrics may need you to hold the clapper to the seam for a little longer.
A clapper works by absorbing the steam (and some heat) from the fabric - thus setting the fibres in the pressed form.
When we apply steam to the fabric, the heat and steam soften the fibres making them quite mailable. As the fibres cool, they start to set in the shape. By holding the clapper on your seam until it cools, the fibres stay in the shape of a crisp, flat seam. They have less chance of bouncing back towards an unpressed seam form. An iron doesn’t allow for the fibres to stay flat while they cool and they will eventually bounce back to their original shape.
You can see in the images below the difference a Tailor's Clapper makes on the pressed seam.
A wool fabric works really well with a clapper - you can get a firm press without scorching the fabric or seeing that shiny 'over pressed' look. Using a substantial amount of steam on the wool and using the clapper, prevents any of this from happening and sets the seams beautifully flat.
Another benefit of using a clapper, is that it sets the seam flat for longer. Natural fibres will always want to revert back to their natural shape, so pressed seams will start to 'relax' over time. We experimented over a 24 hour period and we found that the seam treated with a clapper stayed much flatter than just a steamed seam.
Using the combination of finger pressing, steam and a clapper on delicate fabrics or seams that are on the bias is also beneficial. An iron can put undue strain on the fabric and pull at the stitches and the delicate fibres. A clapper is less likely to put this strain on the seam.
Our clappers have been designed by us - we spent many hours trialling prototypes to get them just right! We use sustainably grown FSC European Beach for best results. Our Tailor's Clapper is shaped to cater for varying hand sizes, rounded edges for comfort, and grooves running the length of each side to easily grip the clapper.
If you've decided you now need this in your sewing arsenal, you can grab your own Tailor's Clapper here. It would also make a delightful gift!
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Written and Made by Caroline, Worn by Aimee & Emma
This elegant shawl is from the Merchant and Mills Sewing Book - one of the three Merchant and Mills books that we stock. This Shawl is a cross between a scarf and a coat, it could be worn open or fastened shut with a belt.
It's a perfect layering piece for when you need an extra layer without needing a full coat. It is also great as an indoor coat alternative.
Pattern - Merchant and Mills Sewing Book - Tailored Shawl
Size - One Size
Fabric - Wool Tweed Coating with Cotton Lawn Lining. (we no longer have this wool fabric, but have plenty of other beautiful wool fabrics available)
You will need 1.75m each of the main fabric and lining fabric - at 140cm wide.
Notions - Thread, Mid-weight knit interfacing - 1m
Skill Level - Advanced Beginner
Maker - Caroline
Skills Used -
Special Note - The pattern needs to be photocopied and enlarged. We recommend you take it to a professional copy shop as the easiest option. Warehouse Stationery or somewhere similar could be a good option for you.
Review -
The Merchant and Mills Sewing Book is in two parts - the first is The Foundations and takes you through everything you need to know to start sewing. It covers sewing equipment, tools, haberdashery, fabrics, how to read a pattern, cloth, pressing and basic sewing techniques. These foundation skills and knowledge are then put into practice in part two, The Tasks, as you are guided through 15 sewing projects that gradually build your skills.
This book is a great reference book as well as an inspiring and simple starting point for those just getting into (or back into…) the art of sewing. It would be a great gift for someone who has expressed an interest in learning to sew, but doesn't quite know where to start.
Merchant and Mills have some great sewing books, I have now sewn from two of their books and their third is a reference book.
The sewing projects include a variety of bags, a tailors ham, ironing board cover, apron and the project I made, the Tailored Shawl.
The whole team has tried on the Tailored Shawl and it looks great on everyone, it's a cross between a winter coat and a really large scarf. It's an elevated scarf which is perfect for layering for the cooler months, it could be worn casually over jeans and a jumper and belted or worn open over a dress.
The shawl is shaped so that it sits on the shoulders, embracing you in a beautiful warm hug. It also has a two piece shawl collar for an elevated look and of course extra warmth!
On the whole it was a fairly simple make, I took my time cutting out the pattern and making sure that the check pattern of the fabric matched on the patch pockets and where the facing was sewn to the front piece.
We chose a really fun lining which complimented the main fabric. The lining really pulls out the subtle pink of the check of the main fabric, I really love it when I see how unexpected fabrics work together and make the other shine.
Both fabrics were great to work with. The wool was very thick and I couldn’t have done it without a tailor's clapper to really get the seams crisp and flat. It also meant that I was able to avoid scorching any of the seams
Conclusion
I think this pattern is a great first step to making winter coats and blazers. Learning to work with the wool fabric, attaching a lining, pockets and sewing a collar with collar stand.
Although this was made for the shop, I want to make one for myself, I really feel the cold and I think that it would be great for those days that I need something over my shoulders. I really like it belted up to make it a really workable garment that keeps it in place.
On the Merchant and Mills Sewing Book page there is a tab on the left hand side titled reviews, click on the plus sign to enlarge the tab and there is a form that you can complete to submit your review or any of our patterns.
]]>Written by Caroline, Made by Aimee, Worn by Arna & Emma
The Tie Bow Blouse by The Assembly Line is the perfect sewing pattern when your are looking for a little elegance that can transition from smart casual through to corporate chic, then onto sophisticated evening wear. Timeless options determined by the fabric you choose to sew it in.
We've sewn ours in a light weight silk cotton voile fabric which is slightly transparent - Arna is wearing a cotton voile slip underneath, while Emma (with pink skirt) has a simple merino tank under. A classic shape that you will be able to wear for years to come - with or without the removable tie.
The pattern features bust darts and a standing collar where you can attach a tie with buttons to the back of the collar. The sleeves end with pleats to create a slight puff silhouette and close with button cuffs.
Pattern - Tie Bow Blouse by The Assembly Line
Size - Large.
Emma's bust = 96cm ; Arna's bust = 95cm
Fabric - Silk Cotton Voile - black
Notions - Vintage Glass Buttons
Skill Level - Intermediate
Maker - Aimee
Skills Used -
Review -
We wanted to have a little fun with this make and turn this in to a longer tunic style shirt, which could be easily layered over trousers or tucked into a longer skirt and worn with a waist coat, cardigan or jumper.
Aimee lengthened the shirt by 40cm, she did this by lengthening straight down on the line of the shirt and squaring it off, the pattern already had side splits in it, so there was no need to adjust the pattern instructions.
A really neat feature of this pattern is that the tie bow is adjustable. It attaches to the buttons at the back of the neck.
The sleeve has eye-catching inverted pleats at the cuffs. Aimee recommends pinning them and then tacking them down before stitching them up. The pattern has handy arrows which shows the direction of the pleats and makes it easier and more accurate.
Conclusion
Aimee really enjoyed making this shirt, even though it was for the store! The fabric that she paired it with is really special, a light silk cotton voile which we currently have a in range of colours.
Our Wooden Pilling comb is a great little tool for de-pilling your woollen garments and keeping them looking as good as new. Our combs are small and light - so perfect for keeping somewhere accessible (I keep one on my dresser and use it all the time throughout the winter months!). Or pop one in your bag for travelling.
Whether it's your precious hand knitted garments or store bought winter woolies, they are worth taking care of so they look their best and last the test of time.
You will often see in your knitted garments that it is the areas of high friction (such as under the arms) that little bobbles or 'pills' form. This is due to the fine fibres working their way to the surface of the garment, then rubbing together to form small balls. The finer and softer the fibre, such as cashmere and superfine merino, the more likely this is to happen.
Yarns that are loosely spun are also slightly more likely to pill, as the loose fibres work their way to the surface. A single spun yarn has a greater chance of pilling than a tightly spun plied yarn. The image below shows a single spun yarn in pink on the left and a plied yarn on the right.
The good news is that the pilling tends to occur at the beginning of a knitted garment's life when the loose fibres escape and it should settle down over time.
Pull the area you want to de-pill taut and gently draw the comb down the surface of your garment. It really is that easy! And oh, so satisfying making your knits look as good as new again!
You may well have seen battery powered lint removers which will also remove pilling from your wools, however we prefer a comb because it will pull the fibres out of the fabric instead of cutting them. This will slowly reduce the pilling over time as all of the loose fibres will be removed. It also means we don't run the risk of catching and cutting any yarns!
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The Hoodie Dress is a great everyday dress - whether you're pottering around the house, for going for a walk or catching up with friends for a coffee. It has large pockets, and a snug hood.
It can be made using mid weight woven and stretch woven fabrics such as linen, denim, cotton drill, viscose twill, cotton batiste, wool and chambray.
There is nothing stopping you from making this in a french terry either, or lengthening or shortening it. It will give you a different look making for a versatile pattern to add to your collection.
Pattern - The Assembly Line - Hoodie Dress
Size - Medium
Emma's Measurements
Fabric - Village Stretch Cotton Drill - Navy
Lightweight knit interfacing in Black
Notions
Skill Level - Beginner plus - Intermediate
Maker - Rolene
Skills Used -
Review -
The Hoodie dress was made for a store sample, however after a bad wardrobe day for Emma, she freed it from its life in store and it now lives with her and is a perfect time to do a review on it!
She is delighted with the result of this dress and I’m guessing by her reaction it won’t be her last.
There is only one change that she would make on the next make and that is to increase the length of the elastic around the hem of the dress. The pattern was constructed as per the instructions, but for Emma as she walks it starts to ride up her calves. Simply lengthening the elastic would eliminate the problem. Test out the elastic around your calves and see what feels right to you, before attaching it.
The slight stretch in our Village Stretch Cotton Drill Fabric works really well with this pattern. It gives it ease across the shoulders and the seat when you are sitting. It also has a lovely crispness to it giving a lovely finish to the dress.
The other lovely feature of the pattern is the topstitching which picks out the interesting seam lines and brilliant large pockets that are great for holding all sorts of necessary and unnecessary items! We used a regular Gutermann thread, but in a lighter blue to give it a subtle contrast.
Conclusion
This is a great dress which is great for multiple seasons, slip a merino top underneath and thick leggings or tights and boots for winter, or use it as a transitional piece in spring or autumn with trainers or sandals depending on the weather!
If you need inspiration the #TALHoodiedress has some great makes. It is definitely worth a scroll! Or we have a Pinterest board with a couple of different ideas!
Have you made this dress? Did you know you can leave a review on our site to help other people decide if they should make the dress or not.
On the Hoodie Dress Pattern Page there is a tab on the left hand side titled reviews, click on the plus sign to enlarge the tab and there is a form that you can complete to submit your review or any of our patterns.
]]>Here are some of our ideas for some quick and easy projects that you can sew up quickly to make the most of the remaining warm weather, or wear them with an extra layer or two to see you through the changeable autumn days ahead.
Aimee and Calley have made a few of these pants and shorts and the pattern has established itself as a firm favourite! They have made View B the most, a loose pair of pants with an elasticated waist. It doesn't have zips or buttons making it a really quick sewing project.
We have made a pair in the Tencel Rayon Flint and teamed it with the Unisex Tee Shirt made from Japanese Cotton Shirting with Ochre and Black ribbing.
We could see some great pairs being made with either the Floral Shade in Calm Grey or the Boulevard Laundered Linen - White. The Floral Shade would make such a great statement pair, and the fabric is so lovely to wear. Layer with a little cardigan, or a longer duster coat for cool mornings or autumn/winter days.
This sewing pattern features a V-Neck and gathered sleeves. A light and breezy top and could also be used as a layering piece with a light merino underneath when the weather gets a little cooler.
A beautiful linen cotton fabric or a viscose crepe would show off the drape and flow of the pattern, especially the sleeves.
Pictured below are two fabrics that we think would pair beautifully with the top. On the left is the Laundered Linen Cotton in Hellebore and on the right is a Viscose Crepe in Night.
We have made this pattern up as a sleeveless version but it is such an easy sewing project to sew in a light linen with sleeves - either as a dress or perhaps a top paired with jeans?
Some of the fabrics that we suggest would be the Cotton Gauze in Native off White (pictured on the left), if you are worried about this being see through then we would suggest lining it with a white cotton lawn. The fabric pictured on the right is the Shelter Black, Linen Cotton Seersucker. A heavier weight than the gauze it would make a great statement dress.
The unisex tee has been designed for woven fabrics, elevating it to be suitable for the office or a casual evening out - it's all just a matter of fabric choice. And of course, it is super simple and quick to sew!
We made it up in some of the Indian Printed Cotton that we had earlier in the season and it was a great success, light and airy but giving a put together feeling.
Here is Emma wearing it with her much worn Shepherd Skirt
Other options include our Sketchbook Bouquet cottons or a viscose poplin or lawn.
I Am Patterns Cassiopee Dress
The raglan sleeves of this dress make for an easy fit and comfortable dress - with no zips and a loose fit, it comes together really quickly. Emma has made a couple and wears them all year round, layering up with a merino top, tights and boots for winter.
The simple lines of this dress are great for showing off your favourite fabric - some of the fabrics would be the a cotton lawn print such as Lush Living or try our Reveal Linen Viscose for a luxurious version - hands down our favourite range of fabric in the store. (unfortunately this range has been discontinued, so what we have left is it!)
The Elastic Waist Maxi Skirt is a comfortable skirt, with pockets and as it says on the label, it has a wide waist and a full skirt - definitely an all season style. Some of the fabrics that we think it could be paired are the (from left to right) stunning Appleyard Check Laundered Linen and our Classic Ecru 8oz Organic Sanded Twill
Closet Core Patterns - The Cielo Top and Dress
The Cielo Dress & Top is an easy, breezy take on a boxy tee and shift dress. Loaded with interesting details and interchangeable features, it will fast become a wardrobe building favourite.
It has definitely become a favourite with Calley, it’s her wardrobe workhorse - she’s confessed she’s made 18 of them now! (It's probably more now.) A simple make that is great at showing off beautiful fabrics. Here Calley is wearing the simple tee version, she used some of our Indian Hand Printed Cotton in the top in the photo.
]]>We have put together a little video on how to use it if you haven't used it before, but it really is as simple as googling, 'Google Translate', on the page there is a section that says Enter Text, and on the right hand side a little Camera and Microphone. If the Camera icon does not appear (it didn't on our instore ipads), you will have to download the app.
I clicked on the camera, pointed it at the text I wanted to read and if like magic, the English words appeared. This gives the ability to be able to both follow the illustrations and read the words!
You can also download the Google Translate app directly to your device for easy access. Here is a video on how we use it in the store.
The patterns in the books need to be traced - and most also need to have a seam allowance added. Fortunately we have a tool for that as well, the Clover Double Tracing Wheel. It is a simple tool to use, the wheels are movable so you can decide the seam allowance that you want, in the video we have it set to 1.5cm.
You can use tracing wheels with carbon paper, but we prefer to use the wheel to create indentations in our tracing paper that we can then mark with a pencil. To do this we:
This image is to show you where to place the wheels.
When you have finished the indents will look like this.
You can then use a pencil to draw over the outer line you have created. Don't forget to also add in other pattern markings such as notches and grainline!
We have also put together a video to show you how to use it which we hope you find helpful!
If you don't have a tracing wheel you can simply place your tracing paper over the pattern and trace off with a pencil. Use a ruler to add seam allowances as needed.
]]>Next week we’ll be holding our annual Sidewalk Remnant Sale. Like previous years, we’ll be using this as an opportunity to raise awareness and funds for charity. This year we are supporting The Neurological Foundation of New Zealand who fund important research into neurological conditions. Conditions such as dementia, autism, epilepsy, mental health, migraine, stroke, the list goes on…. impacting so many of us. 1 in 5 people. This includes me and my family, and so many of us in our Miss Maude community.Miss Maude exists because of my personal journey with mental health and the role that making has played in helping me heal and stay well. I don’t underestimate the positive impact that making has on my state of mind and mental health. This together with the impact neurological conditions have had on our family and friends has made supporting The Foundation’s important work a no brainer (pun intended!).
For me, The Neurological Foundation offers hope to those of us who see and feel the impacts of neurological conditions and in particular for our children, the next generation.
What follows is my journey with mental health and how Miss Maude came to be. It’s our Why.
For the Joy of Making - Our Why.
A few years ago I was living in the south of France. One of the most beautiful places in the world. What dreams are made of right? But I was also battling depression - away from my support networks, recovering from multiple miscarriages, and not being able to speak the local language. I struggled to get out of bed each day. Searching for ways to heal, I realised that I had stopped making. All my life I have created things with my hands - but with the upheaval that comes with moving across the globe, that had all stopped. It hadn’t seemed like a priority - until I realised it was. So I gathered together a few scraps of fabric, then somehow found the ability to get out of the house to visit a local fabric store to purchase a few more. I started to put them together to make a quilt. It was slow. Sometimes it was hard. But it was cathartic. As if with each little piece of fabric added, I was one step closer to a healthy me.
I ended up with a huge quilt - full of bright colours. And along with other help I slowly become well. We were able to complete our family and that quilt sustained us for the remainder of our time in France. We played on it, we took it to the park, visitors slept under it, we used it to snuggle on the couch. We thrashed it. It fulfilled its purpose perfectly. Since then I have made sure to always carve out a little time to make - whether that be knitting, baking (from scratch!), sewing or just nurturing and watching a plant grow.
I need to - making keeps my fingers busy and my mind at rest. Making not only brings a sense of achievement, but it is a process that can bring so much joy. Sometimes it is calm, sometimes it’s less so. Sometimes it’s easy, sometimes it’s a challenge.
But it is always an opportunity to pause. To slow down.
When we returned to New Zealand, we moved to Lake Hawea - rural with no fabric or craft stores. I’d learned my lesson once, I wasn’t going to let that stop me from finding time to create. At the time fabric stores were limited here, and having had access to beautiful stores and fabrics in the UK and Europe, I saw an opportunity to do something here. In the small way that I could at the time (between nappies and meal times), I wanted to share the immense joy that I get from making. The joy from working with natural fibres and quality tools. I imported a small selection of tools and fabrics - Miss Maude was born.
It’s because of this journey that everything we do in the business is done with the desire to delight. To bring joy. To make you smile, perhaps to help you heal or stay healthy as it has for me? The products we stock; the interior of the store; the website; our customer service; how quickly a parcel arrives. We want to bring joy to the entire making journey for you.
We want you to focus on the process and to not worry so much about the outcome. I believe it’s not about perfection, but simply giving something a go, using your mind and hands in a way you don’t usually. Be easy on yourself, - every ‘mistake’ will result in something beautifully imperfect, or it is an opportunity to learn something new.
Seven years on and I am now incredibly privileged to have a wonderful team here at Miss Maude and to have your support as part of our Miss Maude community. We hope you too can find a little joy in making.
Miss Maude Sidewalk Remnant Sale:
Saturday 21st January 2023. 10am
Miss Maude, 11 Hastwell Street, Greytown.
30% of remnant sales will be donated to The Neurological Foundation of New Zealand
Competitions, inspiration, giveaways and a whole lot of JOY!
The Cuff Top Mini along with The Elastic Waist Maxi Skirt Mini are the smallest releases from The Assembly Line with children aged from 3 to 10 years old in mind. The Mini Cuff top is the smaller version of the very popular Cuff Top.
The top has a straight fit, keyhole opening with snap fastener at back and cap sleeves with wide elastic cuffs.
Pattern - The Assembly Line Mini Cuff Top
Size - Size 3
Fabric - Double Gauze Broderie Anglaise - Duck Egg Blue (unfortunately we are now out of this colour way, but have other colours available)
Notions -
Skill Level - Advance Beginner
Maker - Caroline van Deventer
Skills Used -
Review -
We have a beautiful range of double gauze fabrics in store at the moment, which are all perfect for little people. Soft, crinkle resistant, breathable and easy to wash and wear. So selecting one of these fabrics seemed the natural choice for this top!
I love the end result of this pattern - with the topstitching and neck facing, it is slightly more involved than a basic tee, but the result is delightful!
I have recommended a couple of small changes to the pattern as I think they help make this top a great balance between kid friendly practicality and fancy occasion wear.
I sewed the top according to the pattern with the exception of the centre back button. Instead of inserting a button tab and snap, I made a rouleau loop to fit a small shank button. This was an easy change to make, I used our loop turner to make the loop and sewed it in the same place as where the button tab would have been. I followed all the instructions as if I was inserting the tab and it came out really well. I then sewed a button to the outside of the top instead of sewing a snap to the inside.
When making it again, I would recommend changing the width of elastic that I used in the sleeves.
The instructions call for a 30mm wide elastic to be inserted, however I think this could be a bit bulky for children wearing the smaller sizes so I experimented with using a 10mm elastic and threaded it through with a bodkin and made the sleeve channel a bit narrower.
I think it makes the sleeve a bit puffier and softer and more comfortable for the younger children to wear.
I used a mid-weight woven interfacing which in hindsight is too heavy for this project. Combined with the top stitching around the neck, centre front and centre back the result is that the fabric has become a little stiff around the neck edge. Using a light weight knit interfacing would have been much better - it would have kept the drape of the fabric while still giving enough body to the facing. Another option I would consider is to use bias binding to replace the facing. That would reduce the amount of fabric around the neckline which may make it more comfortable for the younger wearers in the smaller sizes.
Conclusion
This is a well drafted pattern and makes a great summer top. I think that in the smaller sizes it is worth keeping to the lighter weight fabrics as it could end up being a bit stiff on a smaller scale. When you make the larger sizes this would be less of a concern. All the little details and tips that you expect from Assembly Line are in this pattern and I think it is a lovely little top.
The skirt is the The Assembly Line Mini - Elastic waist skirt Maxi which we have also reviewed!
Written and Reviewed by Caroline van Deventer
The Assembly Line Mini - Elastic Waist Maxi is a playful skirt with plenty of width, knee length, an elasticated waistband and large patch pockets.
This pattern is designed like the new Elastic waist maxi skirt but for your little ones, in a range from 3-10 years.
Pattern - The Assembly Line Elastic Waist Maxi Skirt Mini
Size - Size 3
Fabric - Terrazzo Duck Egg Light Weight Canvas
Notions
Skill Level - Beginner
Maker - Caroline van Deventer
Skills Used -
Review -
What I really love about this pattern is that it is a quick and easy make. I am sometimes put off making kids clothing as they can take a while to make and then they grow out of them quickly. This patterns ticks my boxes for wearability and is simple to sew. I love the pocket detail and can imagine all sorts being stored in there!
The skirt has plenty of movement and room in it and wouldn’t be restrictive for the wearer while playing. It is also a skirt that could be used for any season depending on the fabric that is used. We used a mid-weight cotton canvas for the skirt which will be hard wearing for anything that the wearer will throw at it. However it could be done in a brightly coloured lawn or gauze for a summer skirt or a drill or light weight denim for winter, making it a great versatile pattern.
The woven Duck Egg Blue Broderie Anglaise Double Gauze top in the pictures above is the Mini Cuff Sleeve Top also by The Assembly Line, which we have also reviewed for you.
The Pink knitted top is the Novice Sweater Junior by Petite Knit.
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Written & sewn by Emma
I've had my eye on the September Coat since it was first released - I love the look of a longline coat/duster and as someone who feels the cold, it is also a wonderfully practical wardrobe item for me.
We recently received a later winter drop of Italian Wool Coatings in the store, and when I laid eyes on the vibrant apple greens and blues of the Valley Check, I immediately cut myself a length for this project.
Pattern - Merchant & Mills - The September Coat
Size - 12. Made for Emma, her bust measurement is 97cm, Height 173cm
Fabric -
Notions -
Skills Used
Maker - Emma
Pattern and Instructions
The September Coat is another timeless pattern from the Merchant & Mills pattern range - it has been designed as an oversized, raglan sleeve coat that can be made either with or without a lining. There are detailed instructions for both options included in the pattern.
Personally I was wanting a coat to wear inside while at work, so I opted for the unlined version and used bias binding to finish the seams that may be visible as I saunter amongst the shelves of yarn and bolts of fabrics!
I didn't make any adjustments or alterations to the pattern. I did however alter the construction of the pockets slightly. Explained further below.
I found the pattern to be well drafted and with clear instructions. Everything went together well, and I would happily recommend it to confident intermediate sewers.
Fit & Sizing
I am 173cm tall and my bust measurement is 97cm. Referencing the pattern size chart, this puts me at a size 14.
The pattern is an oversized style, with plenty of ease, but as I wanted something to wear indoors, I didn't want it too big and bulky. I used a ready-to-wear coat of a similar style that I already had in my wardrobe to help choose my size. I made a size 12 with no adjustments and I am really happy with the fit.
I have broad shoulders, so the raglan sleeve is a good style for me - generally a raglan is easier to fit me and is more comfortable. As a bonus, raglan sleeves are normally easier and quicker to sew that a set in sleeve.
In the photos here, I am wearing it over a relatively fitting knit dress. The coat still fits over bulkier jumpers, but I suspect I'll only layer it over dresses and shirts.
Prepping the Fabric
I used a 100% wool fabric and I don't plan to wash the finished coat - I'll spot or dry clean it if needed. But to make sure that I wouldn't get any shrinkage during construction (a lot of hot steam is used to get crisp seams), I pressed my fabric with a hot steam iron before laying out my pattern.
This fabric is woven with relatively thick yarns in a loose-ish twill weave. This results in a warm fabric with a lovely drape, but also a fabric that loves to fray!! This created a bit of a challenge with some of my seams, so if I was to use this fabric again, I would overlock the edges of all pattern pieces immediately after cutting them out.
I ended up moving this project around a bit - sewing on the dining table, I had to pack up and unpack the work in progress to make way for family life! This meant that some of my pieces frayed more than I would have liked. I ended up having to trim my front facings a little, which resulted in my button holes and buttons not quite being centred at the front. As I intend on wearing this as a duster style, I don't anticipate buttoning the coat up, so in this case it's not a biggie.
Cutting & Layout
The check on this fabric is bold, so I wanted to make sure that I pattern matched the checks where possible. This meant that cutting out the pattern pieces took quite a while. I cut each piece out on a single layer of fabric to make sure that I could align the checks.
The above photo shows the centre back seam matching across the back, as well as upwards to the collar.
The key to getting a good pattern match is to make sure the pattern hits the same point of the fabric pattern design at key points - such as the hem, notches, underarm, pockets, shoulder, etc. Also, don't forget about the seam allowance - you will 'loose' some of the check pattern in.
As I laid out and cut each piece, I placed the pattern pieces to be sewn together on top of each other to make sure that all the checks matched. (See image below) I also had to remember to cut pairs by flipping each pattern piece that needed a pair to be cut. This is very easy to forget when cutting out pattern pieces on a single layer of fabric!
I also made sure to mark the right side of each pattern piece with a safety pin. The fabric looks the same on both sides and I didn't want to end up with two left arms!!
I cut the pocket flaps out on the bias to add a little interest.
Due to the relatively loose weave of this fabric, it had plenty of 'wobble' when sewing the seams. Because of this, and combined with my desire to pattern match the checks, I made sure to use plenty of pins when aligning seams.
As mentioned - this fabric likes to fray! So I would definitely recommend overlocking the edges of each pattern piece immediately after cutting it out.
Once each seam was sewn, I pressed it using a lot of hot steam and a tailor's clapper. This helps set the seam and creates a permanent crisp seam.
For the seams that are likely to be visible when wearing the coat, I finished them with a Hong Kong Binding. This included the front and back facings, hem and back vent.
I French Seamed the side pockets and everything else was overlocked.
Pockets
As the inseam side pockets may be seen when wearing the coat, I decided to French Seam these, and ideally I would have finished the side seams with Hong Kong Binding too, but....well, I ran out of time! There was an icy polar blast forecast and I wanted to finish this in time!
There are three patch pockets on the front of the coat, I choose to line these with 8oz Sanded Twill to give them a little more rigidity - I tend to give my pockets a work out when working in the store! Phones, rubbish, pens, scissors, tapes, and more end up in there!
To do this, for each patch pocket and pocket flap, I cut one in the main coat fabric and cut one in the Sanded Twill lining. I then sewed each pair together with right sides facing and bagged them out before sewing onto the coat.
Collar
I generally like to wear my collars up, so I'm always a fan of a contrast under collar. For this project I used the Sanded Twill to co-ordinate with the pockets. It has also helped give a little more structure to the collar with this looser weave fabric.
I cut the Under Collar and one Collar Stand from the Sanded Twill.
Buttons
I used some gorgeous 35mm vintage buttons. Before sewing the buttonholes, I reinforced the fabric with a little extra interfacing. This is because of the loose weave of the fabric, and wouldn't be necessary on a tightly woven drill or similar.
I sewed the buttonholes on my machine, but am planning on reinforcing them by hand stitching over the top.
Conclusion
I love this coat! It has a beautiful weight and drape - cozy, but not too bulky to wear throughout the day. I'm also a big fan of the bright colour - it definitely brings a smile on a dreary day.
I am happy with sizing down one size for fit, and have my eye on a few other fabrics in the store to make a few more - time permitting!! It's such a great way to showcase favourite fabrics and is an easy way to zhuzh up a plain outfit.
The coat can be sewn up in anything from a mid weight linen right through to a heavy denim or oilskin. I may or may not have a piece of Oxblood Dry Oilskin and Rolling Downs Cotton Canvas cut off and stashed away for more September Coats! 😉
Written By Caroline
The Wilder Gown has been wildly popular in the sewing world since its release, and it's not hard to see why, it's easy to fit and easy to wear. The pattern features sleeves but for this version we thought it would be fun to remove them and replace them with bias binding to create a beautiful sleek gown, perfect for balls, weddings or parties…or even a summer holiday somewhere hot if you are lucky enough to be leaving these shores or are just getting prepared for the summer months!
Pattern - The Wilder Gown - Sleeveless Hack
Size - Medium
Fabric - 2.7m Reveal Linen Viscose - Cinnamon
Notions -
Skill Level - Beginner
Maker - Aimee
Skills Used - Making and attaching Bias Binding
Review -
Aimee followed the pattern for the most part, and only omitted the sleeve section of the sewing pattern instructions. To finish the armscye (armhole), Aimee used bias binding that she made from the Reveal Linen Viscose.
Below we will go through the steps that you will need to make this version.
To make the bias binding, Aimee cut 2 x bias strips 75cm long, 53mm wide for the arm holes and prepared it using a bias binding maker.
Then stitch the side seams right sides together with a 1.6cm seam allowance and finish the seams using your preferred method.
Taking the bias binding strips that you made earlier, attach them to the armhole edge with the following method:
You can now skip to Step 8 of the pattern instructions. Press the top edge of your bodice under 1.3cm towards wrong side. (The pattern illustrations shows to turn the top of the sleeves over as well, which you won't need to do.)
Follow step 9, again just the bodice not the sleeves.
And then continue as per the instructions.
And Voila! You will have a beautiful sleeveless dress!
Conclusion
One of the things that Aimee really loved about this pattern was all the motivational cartoons that are in the instructions - she loved to be told that she was going great! This is something that you will see in all Friday Pattern Company patterns and it is very cute!
The lovely part of this was the skirt, it only has one pattern piece but cut five times, three for the bottom tier and two for the top tier - it makes for simple cutting out!
The linen in the Reveal fabric makes it much more stable than just the viscose by itself, but still has a lovely drape and handle to it.
The fabric can be used on either side, depending on what takes your fancy! It makes it a really versatile fabric.
Aimee thought it was a really great combination of fabric and pattern to create a statement dress. It's a lovely versatile dress that comes in a wide range of sizes and has nice simple lines that allow you to create shorter versions or a blouse. Definitely a pattern to have in your stash!
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Making and using bias binding is a really great skill to have in your sewing arsenal and gives an excellent finish to seams and edges on garments.
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Making and using bias binding is a really great skill to have in your sewing arsenal and gives a clean finish to seams and edges on garments. It is also a good replacement if you don't want to use a facing that is provided by a pattern and prefer to have a different finish instead.
We have used our Reveal Linen Viscose to sew both the Wiksten Shift Top and The Wilder Gown where we used bias binding to create beautiful finishes on the neckline and armhole respectively.
Wiksten Shift Top Sewing Pattern Review
Friday Patterns Wilder Gown Sewing Pattern Hack
Simply it is because it is cut on the bias (diagonal) instead of cutting in line with the grain of your fabric. Anything cut on the bias will have some stretch to it, as opposed to cutting something with the grain.
The grain is the direction of the yarns in a fabric, and they are woven with a warp and weft yarn which gives the fabric stability. Turn the fabric 45 degrees and it pulls across the yarn.
Bias Binding is cut on a 45 degree angle, diagonally across the grain of the fabric. Cutting it at this angle means that it gives the tape flexibility to be worked around curves such as necklines and armholes. It can also be used to finish seams using a technique known as a Hong Kong Finish. This is a method of binding seams with bias tape, and is a great option if you are making an unlined coat where the seams will be visible.
Bias Binding can either be bought pre-made or you can make your own using a Bias Tape Maker.
When making or buying bias binding, you might notice that it is referred to as either Single Fold or Double Fold Bias Binding.
Our Bias Tape Makers create Single Fold Tape - where the edge of the binding is folded in to meet in the centre of the binding strip. Single fold bias is a good option when you want to finish an edge, such as a neckline, and only want to binding to be visible on one side.
To make double fold bias just fold it in half again and iron.
We also stock pre made Double Fold Bias Binding, which is great for binding an edge where you will see the binding on both sides of the edge. This might include binding seams, finishing the edge of a blanket. or adding decorative detail to the top of a patch pocket.
The great thing about making Bias Binding is that you can use offcuts from a project which helps reduce waste from a project.
Take a largish section of fabric and find the grain line, you will want to make a 45 degree cut across the fabric.
Cut strips of fabric that are the width as stated on your bias maker, or if not using a bias maker, cut the fabric four times the finished width of the final binding for double fold binding, or twice the finished width for single fold bias. I want binding that is approximately 12mm when finished, so will cut out fabric that is 50mm wide.
Depending on the length that you require you will need to join the strips of fabric to make one continuous length, place the ends at a 90 degree angle and sew at a 45 degrees. Trim to neaten the edges.
Before inserting the fabric into the tape maker pre stretch it, this will help it to go around any curves. Gently pull the tape while using lots of steam and heat on it.
Insert the fabric in to the tape maker (with the wrong side facing up), it sometimes helps to use an awl to help the fabric through.
Pin the end of the tape to the ironing board and then pull the tape maker using the handle and iron the tape as it comes out the tape maker.
If you want Single Fold Bias Tape then your tape is ready to be attached. If you are after Double Folded then fold the binding in half again and press the bias binding, it is now ready to attach.
Tips on how to attach bias binding to avoid getting the twisting and roping.
These tips will apply if you have ready made tape or you made your own and will help you to insert tape that is free of twisting and roping that can sometimes occur.
Skip this step if you are binding a straight line. If you are going to be attaching bias binding to a curve it is well worth pre-curving the tape before attaching it. It helps the binding to sit flat and be inserted smoothly.
Place it on your ironing board and gently curve it around, check against the curve that you are going to be sewing it on to make sure that it has enough curve to it. Do not move the tape until it has cooled.
Attach the bias binding to the right side first, by sewing at the first fold line, then fold over and use a lot of pins to prevent the roping effect. It's always good to allow it to relax after you have pinned the first time and before folding it over to let the fabric settle after it has been manipulated.
Roping (the ripples that you can occur sometimes on bias binding) can occur when the bias is stretched and pulled too much in the wrong direction. Allowing it to relax after you have initially sewed it can reduce this from happening.
Give it a bit of time (as long as you can, over night if you have the time) and then fold the tape over and give it a final sew.
The main tip is to take your time. There is no rush. Bias binding really doesn’t like to be rushed!
References
Sewing Step By Step Alison Smith MBE
]]>Written By Caroline
Our Bohin Loop Turner is a fantastic tool when you are making spaghetti straps, button loops, coat loops, belt loops or drawstrings and the loop you are turning is too narrow for a bodkin. It is a simple tool with a little hook on the end of a long length of firm wire. The hook latches onto the fabric, is clipped shut and then you gently pull the fabric the right side out.
Cut and sew your fabric according to the pattern you are following. If you aren't following a pattern, cut strips of fabric on the bias to the width you require plus a 1.3 seam allowance. Fold the fabric in half length ways with right sides together and press. Sew the length of your fabric to create a tube.
You do not have to trim the seam allowance as it will fill the tube to give the strap that lovely full shape.
Trim one end of your fabric tube on an angle as in the image below. This will help initially as you start to turn your fabric through to the right side.
Insert the Loop Turner in the opposite end of the fabric tube.
Fasten the hook to the end that has been cut on the diagonal and fasten it shut.
Then slowly work the hook back through the tube by pulling on the turner so it turns the fabric the right way out.
And now attach the strap or drawstring according to your pattern instructions.
I was motivated to make this pair of jeans, not only because my current thread bare pair had got to a stage where they were no longer 'decent' to wear in public, but I also wanted to document the process to show that making your own jeans is really not complicated - it's just one stitch at a time. The satisfaction at the end of the project is pretty amazing - the first time I made a pair, I felt like I had traversed into the realm of a 'real sewist'!
This was a slow project for me - snatching moments of time between a busy time at work and family life. It was also a 'slower than normal' project as I filmed many of the steps and techniques. Previous jeans projects have taken me a weekend to complete.
Pattern - Heroine Jeans By Merchant & Mills
Size - 10. Although my body measurements are closer to a 14. I sized down to get a closer fit through the waist and hip.
Fabric - Organic Cotton 11.5oz Rigid Denim
Notions -
For a quick link to all our notions that you might need for a denim project, you can find them in our Denim Haberdashery section.
We have different fabric options in our Denim Fabrics section
Skill Level - Intermediate plus
Maker - Emma, for herself
Skills Used
This is the second pair of Heroine Jeans that I've made - the jeans are high waisted, slightly oversized with a wide leg. I like this style for my body shape - I have a comparatively small waist, long torso and larger legs. This makes for easier fitting - and I think a good style for your first pair.
Pattern and Instructions
It's no secret that I'm a big fan of Merchant and Mills patterns - I love their timeless style and have always found the instructions clear and easy to follow. I followed the instructions with only small tweaks -
Fit
The key areas to fit are the waist, hip and the rise. I recommend making a toile (practice mock up in scrap fabric - mid/heavy weight calico is ideal).
I found these jeans to be quite large around the waist and hip for me - so I sized down two sizes.
If you want to skip some of the more detailed fitting techniques, I recommend making these jeans to size as per your body measurements to achieve a baggier style of jean. (Generally speaking, the tighter the fit, the more likely there is to be detailed fit adjustments required). Then look at simple adjustments such as taking in the side seams if needed; lowering or raising the rise; and possibly tweaking the centre back seam.
Haberdashery, Tools, Topstitching and Construction
I documented the entire project, on social media, saving each post to an Instragram Highlight. and now also here on You Tube. Here you will find detailed information about the following key areas:
We also have a great tutorial on how to install our jeans buttons and rivets,
I used two sewing machines for most of the project - I have a gorgeous old Singer 201k that I found hidden at the back of a second hand store. It only sews a straight stitch, but it loves heavy fabrics and thread, making topstitching a breeze!
I have wanted to sew this pattern since it was released earlier in the year. It just looked like such a great casual jacket and I could see it easily layered with a merino jumper and jeans or with smarter trousers and a top on my way to work. Perfect for days where you need something warm to wear but don’t need a full sleeve!
The vest features hidden front pockets with large flaps at the front, large snap fasteners and depending on your preference, it can either be lined or unlined.
Pattern - The Cap Sleeve Vest By The Assembly Line
Size - Medium
Fabric - 6 Wale Cord in Toffee (main fabric) and Viscose Crepe in Canope Ochre (lining)
Notions -
Skill Level - Intermediate plus
Maker - Caroline for a store sample
Skills Used
Although I made this as a sample for the store's mid-winter display, as soon as I tried it on I knew it would be a delightful coat to wear. I love the final result, particularly the texture of the cord combined with the print of the lining. I will be making one for myself as soon as I can - I already have the fabric ready to go!
Tips for Prepping the Project.
For this project I made the lined version. I didn't finish any of the internal seams of my fabric, but you may want to finish the seams if you are working with a fabric that frays a lot.
Interfacing
I used two different types of interfacing for this project, I wanted a structured collar and our woven mid-weight interfacing was perfect for the job. Interfacing is also needed on the placket and the pockets. Here I wanted a softer look so used a mid-weight knit interfacing which helps the fabric retain its drape.
Cutting the Fabric
The pattern instructions shows the fabric layout for the main fabric but not for the lining. I needed 1.3m of fabric for the lining compared to the main fabric (which required 2.3m) so laid out the pattern pieces as seen in the photo below. As you can see I rotated one of the patterns up side down. If you have fabric that is directional you will definitely need more fabric. I would suggest using the amount suggest for the main fabric to ensure you can fit it in.
At the start of the project, you are instructed to iron the hems, this is where my hot hemmer came into its own! Ironing viscose can sometimes be tricky because it is slippery, but here the hemmer just makes it a lot easier to be accurate! We have a handy guide on how to use it, although it is really not complex!
To ensure the collar was even I used the method that I wrote about for The Oversized Shirt, marking the stitch line with chalk and using that as a sewing guide to ensure that the collar was even on both sides.
When I was sewing the flaps for the pockets I found that the combination of corduroy and viscose crepe shifts and moves. To combat this I pinned it heavily and also found sewing in the direction of the nap (so it feels smooth as you stroke the fabric.) helped.
At the side seams at the underarm point, we recommend clipping the corner as close as you can to the stitch line (as shown below) to help the fabric sit better. The lining is loose at the bottom and not attached to the hem. I prefer my linings to be anchored so used French Tacks at the side seams. This keeps the lining from moving around too much but as it allows some movement and it stops it from pulling the body of the coat out of shape during wear.
Conclusion
This is a great pattern and I can’t wait to make my own. If you aren’t lining it it would be a fairly quick sew, the lining does add time to the make, but also it is worth it as it adds a certain luxury to the coat. I love a coat that has an interesting lining.
The corduroy is luxurious, and easier to sew with than I was expecting. The feeling of it when you put it on is lovely! It's silky and soft and has a lovely sheen to it.
I can understand why The Assembly Line has such a solid fan base. They just produce great patterns which result in great garments.
If you want to find out more about corduroy fabrics, we have a handy guide with lots of tips and tricks to help you sew with this beautiful fabric.
Corduroy - we've had a wee love affair with this wonderful fabric for a few years now. And we're not the only ones it seems, with the fabric having gone through something of a renaissance recently. Available in modern colour ways that play with the light, corduroy fabric has beautiful texture, wonderful sheen, and is also very sturdy and durable. Depending on the type of corduroy that you select - you can create soft garments with drape or something quite structured. Emma made a pair of Pattern Fantastique Terra Trousers a few years ago that she created from our 6 Wale Corduroy. They are in heavy rotation and still have a lot of wear left in them.
It is thought corduroy was first developed for nobility using silks and that perhaps the name corduroy came from French corde du roi meaning ‘king's cord’. With time the fabric became more accessible to wider society and during the Industrial Revolution, the fabric was woven with cotton, making it a popular choice for workwear and the working classes. To some it was known as 'poor man's velvet'
If you are wondering what a wale is - we aren't talking about the mammal or the country. The wale is the number of ridges, or cords, per inch on the fabric - the lower the "wale" number, the thicker the width of each wale (e.g., 4-wale has much thicker cords than 11-wale). Our corduroy is 6 cords per inch, making it relatively chunk, but also very soft with a lovely drape.
Each cord has a pile which naturally creates a nap on the fabric, meaning it can look quite different when viewed at different angles.
Our 6 Wale Cotton Corduroy is versatile. It can be used for trousers, skirts or jackets.
Pre - wash your fabric.
Cutting Corduroy.
The most important thing to think about when working with corduroy is the nap. If you stroke the fabric one way it will be soft and silky. If you brush it in the opposite direction then it will feel quite rough and coarse.
When cutting out any pattern pieces, constantly check that you have the nap all going the same direction. It will be obvious when you wear the garment if the nap isn’t in the same direction as the light will be reflected differently and the garment will appear to be made of different coloured fabrics.
This picture below demonstrates it perfectly. It is the same piece of fabric but the piece on the left has the nap going down and the one on the right has the nap going up when you smooth it down.
Reminder - Ensure the pattern pieces are all going in the same direction before cutting out them out.
Which way should the nap run when cutting out a pattern? While there may be traditional 'right and wrong' ways to cut out corduroy fabric, here at Miss Maude we believe the choice is yours!
We recommend that you hold your fabric up from one end to see how the light hits it. Turn it up the other way and you will notice the colour intensity change - one direction will be more intense than the other. Consider this and the look that you want to achieve with your sewing project before laying and cutting out your pattern pieces
Ironing
Use a towel to reduce crushing the nap.
Some people don’t like to iron corduroy because it can crush the fibres. However I have found as long as I take precautions first, its fine to iron. First I put down a fluffy towel on the ironing board and place the right side of the fabric facing the towel. This will help to protect the fibres of the cord, when ironing I use a low heat and only iron the wrong side.
Use a Clapper
The next indispensable tool is a clapper. To get really crisp seams I apply a liberal amount of steam. Lots and lots, with the face of the iron not touching the fabric. After shooting steam I place the clapper on the seam and leave it to cool down. It works beautifully every time!
Use steam to plump up the nap if they do get crushed
If you do squash your nap. Fear not. Just apply lots of steam to the nap and then brush it with your fingers. The steam will plump up the fibres beautifully.
Use Lots of Pins or Baste Pieces Together
Corduroy is great to sew if you are sewing it right sides together. It is a bit like velcro. It just sticks together! But it can be a little shifty if combined with another fabric. When I was sewing the Cap Sleeve Vest I used a viscose crepe for the lining. When I sewed the pocket flaps, one side was cord and the other the viscose. And they moved. In opposite directions. To counteract this, I was very liberal with my use of pins and fabric clips. I used both to really secure it. If you are finding your fabric particularly shifty, you might like to consider basting before sewing.
Use a Walking Foot
If you have a walking foot on your machine I can recommend using this. And if you are sewing two different fabrics, have the lighter fabric on the bottom next to the feed dog and the corduroy on the top.
Pro Tip - Avoid the fabric creeping by sewing in the direction of the nap.
Gabrielle's Beryl Bomber Dress
If you are going to take your time to make something, my guess is that you will want to make something that lasts. And corduroy will not let you down. Definitely worth considering for your winter wardrobe.
Perhaps you would like to teach yourself? Or maybe you're lined up to be the Chief Entertainment Officer for some younger people in your life these holidays?
We thought we'd put together a quick roundup of sewing patterns that are ideal to start out.
The patterns we've chosen can all be sewn using stable fabrics that will keep things as simple as possible for a beginner sewer.
The Mini Briar Tee is a great option to sew in a stable knit such as our Sideline range or Interlock Double Knit. Sizes 2yrs -12yrs in each pattern - so you can get the whole whānau sewing! This also comes in an adult version for the taller members of the family!
The Mini Tania Culottes are also a great project to work on with younger sewers. To get started we'd recommend a stable cotton such as our organic cotton poplin range.
The remainder of the patterns we have in this round up are designed for adults, but many have a size range that is also suitable for tweens and young teens.
The River Tee and Dress pattern is a basic that can be sewn in both knit fabrics and woven fabrics - so a really great basic that can be adapted. If choosing a knit, try a stable one such as our Sideline range or Interlock Double Knit. If choosing a woven fabric, a cotton poplin or lawn fabric is a great option that's easy to work with.
The Unisex Tee is a store favourite and also a fantastic starter project. At this time of year, we're thinking that our Japanese Fine Cotton Twill would be a great choice!
How about a pair of pyjamas to laze around in? Try the trousers in the Saguaro Set for a starter in one of our shirting cottons for a satisfying first make. This pattern can also take you from night to day by choosing alternative fabrics for a casual day trouser.
Prefer a skirt? The Assembly Line A-Line Midi skirt is a great starting pattern! Suitable for any stable light-mid weight fabrics, we think this sewn in our Washer Heavy Weight Linen range or everyday Cotton Drill would be great options!
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We hope you're feeling a little inspired to pull out the sewing machine these holidays and either pass your knowledge on to someone else, or if you're just starting out - just do it!
You can check out our latest store open hours here.
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As part of the Mid Winter Festival of Christmas we have created an oversized Knitting Installation which we are really excited about. Just outside the store, you'll find giant knitting intertwined with a plethora of fairy lights - a stunning evening display to complement the many other lighting displays around the Village this July.
We welcome you to sit down with the giant knitting needles and take a picture looking like something out of Alice in Wonderland!
To win a $500 voucher to spend at Miss Maude, take a picture of your visit to the store or the goodies you purchased while here and post it on Instagram using the tags #missmaudenz and #greytownvillage or email your photo to info@missmaude.co.nz and you will be in with a chance to win.
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Knitting is a great hobby, it isn't quick but the satisfaction that you get is never ending!
Before you can wrap yarn around needles and whip up a hat, scarf or a jumper, there is a little bit you need to do to prepare.
Everything you need will be listed in the pattern, and it also gives you a lot of other information too, such as tension, needle size and the type of yarn to use. This may seem like a lot of information to take in - but we're here to break it down to help you create something you can be proud of!
When picking up a knitting pattern for the first time - you might think you're looking at short hand or a foreign language! There can be a lot of numbers and abbreviations, which may at first appear confusing, but once you know what you're looking at - it is actually very straight forward.
Abbreviations > Abbreviations are used to save space on the paper - and once you've knitted a few patterns, you're likely to find that they are quicker and easier to read.
All patterns should have a list of abbreviations that have been used throughout the pattern. While there are common abbreviations that most knitting patterns utilise (such as P = purl, K = knit), we recommend you always refer to the abbreviation list of each pattern before starting.
You are also likely to see abbreviations used for units of measurement - some of these include:
mm = milimetres
cm = centremetres
" or in = inches
yd = yards
m = metres
g = grams
row = a row of knitting that is knit back and forth
rnd = round, a complete circle of knitting when knitting a circular pattern
Numbers and Brackets >
Most garment and accessory knitting patterns will be designed for various sizes. This might be as simple as two sizes in the case of a shawl perhaps, or there might be 10 or more sizes in some garment patterns.
For most patterns, the sizes will be listed in a series of brackets - the brackets simply group the various sizes, and will correlate to information and instructions further on in the pattern. For example in the image below, size L is the third size listed in the first set of brackets and it has a finished circumference of 52" or 132cm.
The brackets/grouping generally makes it easier to read the pattern and to find the information and instructions relevant to your size. In the example above, all measurements and instructions throughout the remainder of the knitting pattern that are required for a Size L will be listed as the 3rd number within the first set of brackets - we can now ignore all the other numbers in the list.
Many patterns are written for both imperial and metric measurements - which makes for a lot of numbers! Just take your time to ensure you are reading the relevant measurements for you.
Pro Tip - once you have determined your size, slowly read through the pattern circling/highlighting the instructions, numbers and measurements that are relevant to your size. You can see I have started to do this with orange marker in the image above.
Note: where the brackets enclose a series of numbers, the unit of measurement will be listed at the end of the set of brackets (as in the image above) This might be length, weight, or a stitch/row measurement
Pattern Repeats
Knitting patterns are just that - a series of repeating patterns. In the simplest form, it is the repeat of one Knit Stitch. More complex combinations of stitches are repeated over and over to create interesting textures and lace details.
A knitting pattern will normally write all the stitches included in a pattern repeat, then tell you to repeat it either a certain number of times, or until you reach a certain point in your row or project.
For example to create a basic rib, for say the border of a hat, the pattern instructions may be:
*K1, P1; rep from * to end.
The * denotes the beginning of the pattern repeat, while the ; is the end of the repeat. So the direction above means to:
Knit one stitch, Purl one stitch, then repeat this pattern until you get to the end of the row. So for this row you would simply alternate knitting then purling each stitch.
You may also encounter a pattern repeat where a number of rows or rounds are repeated multiple times. In this case you will be given the instructions for each unique row/round, then an instruction such as:
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 3 times.
This means you would knit the following:
Round 1
Round 2
Round 1
Round 2
Round 1
Round 2
First you will need to identify your size according to the size guide on the pattern - this will in turn determine how much yarn you will need for your project.
When choosing what size to make - some patterns may list Body Measurements, while others may only list the Finished Measurements of the project. If this is the case you need to choose how much ease you desire.
EASE
Each garment is designed to have a certain amount of ease.
Ease is the difference between the body size and the garment size.
For example, the finished garment measurements for a jumper might be;
Finished Bust Measurements: A - 102.5 (B-111.5, C-120, D-129) cm bust circumference
The pattern is designed to be worn with 5-20cm of ease depending on your personal preference. If you like a baggy jumper you might opt for the full 20cm of ease.
Body Measurement + Ease = Finished Garment Measurement
In this case, if your body measurement at the bust is 100cm, add 20cm ease to this and you get 120cm, equating to the size C.
Now you know your size, the next step is to choose the yarn (if you haven't already!)
Patterns will specify the type of yarn it has been designed for - perhaps a 4ply, 8ply or a 12 ply etc.
Sometimes a knitting pattern will suggest a specific brand of yarn - but you can choose to use different brands than suggested. In this case - use a yarn that has similar characteristics. Things to look for are:
Once you get more confident with your knitting you'll be able to have fun 'breaking the rules' by using different yarns or yarn combinations to create your own unique knitting projects.
To try to make life a little easier - we list on our website yarns that are suitable for each knitting pattern.
The knitting pattern will specify the amount of yarn that is required for each different size.
Pro Tip - We always recommend that you buy all the yarn for your project at the same time. Yarn is dyed in batches and the colour can vary each time a batch is dyed. You want to avoid buying yarn from different batches which may result in striping where you have changed yarn batch colour.
Each yarn (with the exception of some hand dyed yarns) will have a batch number to check on the yarn label.
If you are using the same yarn as specified in the pattern - it should tell you how many balls or skeins that you need. If choosing to use an alternate yarn, you will need to do a couple of easy calculations.
A pattern will tell you how much yarn you need in one or all of the following:
Where metres or yards are given - simply divide the total length of yarn needed by the length in each ball or skein of your chosen yarn.
Balls/Skeins Required = Total length required / Length in Each ball
The yarn label will tell you how many metres/yards there are in each ball/skein
For example a pattern calls for 1082 (1233, 1358, 1509) meters
If we want to make the first size - and we've selected a yarn that has 400m in each skein, we'll need:
1082m / 400m = 2.7 skeins. In this case, we'd purchase 3 skeins.
Pro Tips -
> Always round up to ensure you have enough for your project.
> Use the same measurement unit throughout your equation - yards or metres.
Where grams are given, and you are using a different yarn than specified in the pattern:
The knit pattern designer will specify grams of yarn required, plus they should state how many metres or yards are in each 50g or 100g lot. See image below for an example.
In this case we need to work out how many metres (or yards) this equates to. To do this we use the following equation:
(Weight required / Weight of ball specified) x Length of each ball specified
So in the example above if we are to knit size XS (the first size listed) our equation looks like this:
(200g / 25g) x 210m = 1680m
Now that we know how many metres we need, we can use the first equation above to determine how many balls/skeins to buy of our chosen yarn.
Note: Yarn requirements are always approximations - actual yarn used may vary based on your knitting style and variances in different yarns.
The next step is to determine the needle size you will use.
The pattern will give you an indication of what they suggest as a needle size but this will also depend on if you are a loose or tight knitter. This is why knitting a tension square to check gauge is very important.
Getting the right tension and needle is very important for a project where size matters (ie a jumper). 1cm difference may not seem much on a 10cm square but over the width of a jumper it can have a real impact!
For example the pattern will state that the gauge needs to be:
21 stitches x 32 rows = 10cm in stockinette stitch on 4mm needles after washing and blocking.
If you have less stitches and rows in your 10cm x 10cm square than specified in the pattern, then try using a smaller needle and testing again until you find the right needle size for your style of knitting.
If you have more stitches and rows in your 10cm x 10cm square than specified in the pattern, then try using a bigger needle and testing again until you find the right needle size for your style of knitting.
Pro Tip - knit your tension square a few cms larger. We normally recommend 15cm x 15cm. This is because your edge stitches and rows can sometimes be a little off gauge. Measure your stitches in the middle of your tension square. See image above.
Feeling inspired and ready to start knitting? Take a look at our beginner knitting patterns here.
Happy Knitting!
Update - Thank you to everyone that came in and added a row to our scarf. Over the period of July as part of our Greytown Festival of Christmas celebrations.
We had well over 100 people participate in our scarf, it ended up being wider than expected, and measured in at 115cm long. Although shorter than we hoped we will still be donating $1000 to Hospice Wairarapa.
Emma with Tracey Harris from Hospice Wairarapa getting ready to knit a community scarf
We wanted to use this as an opportunity to involve you, our community in raising money for Hospice Wairarapa. You are invited to come and help us knit a scarf - for every 1cm knitted of the scarf, Miss Maude will donate $5 to Hospice Wairarapa (up to a maximum of $1000). But we need YOU to help knit the scarf - so please, come along, take a seat and knit a row (or two..). We'll even give you a delicious locally baked gingerbread cookie for you efforts! ....we made sure to give them a thorough taste test for you!
It will be taking place for the whole of July so there is plenty of time, to come sit, have a chat and relax into some knitting. On fine days, we have a welcoming spot outside (and a couple of blankets to keep any winter chills at bay), and if the weather turns south, we have a couple of chairs inside in the warm.
It really doesn't matter what your skill level is, from beginners to advanced - anyone is welcome to come and knit a few stitches.
We are also proud to support Fabric a Brac Wairarapa which is taking place on the 2 July - another wonderful fundraiser for Hospice Wairarapa.
July is going to be fun in the Village - we have done a roundup of our favourite things to do during the month. There are plenty of things for all of the family.
We hope to see you here!
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