Oilskin might seem a little intimidating to begin with, but it's a really easy fabric to sew. It's a wonderfully stable fabric, making it a good project for advancing beginners wanting to develop their sewing skills.
Oh, and don’t be concerned if you make a mistake, oilskin is more forgiving than you might think and can be ‘healed’ to reduce most marks that the fabric may gain by having to unpick a seam.
Like all fabrics, it's important to use the right needle, we would recommend a 90/14 denim needle for your projects.
Because of the nature of the fabric it will leave pin marks when you use pins to secure the fabric before sewing, but Fabric Clips are an ideal alternative as they won’t leave marks, just clip them on and you are away!
You do not need a specialised foot for oilskin, the standard one on your machine will be great, if you have a walking foot it may help you get more even stitches depending on your machine. To check I did a sewing test using both types of foot and you can see the results on our Oilskin FAQ page.Using the Right Thread
We have found that working with a regular thread works really well with this fabric, but depending on the project (for example a bag or our DIY tablet cover) you may want to use a thicker thread to give a more defined stitch, but it is an aesthetic choice and down to your personal preference.
If you are topstitching a project, try a longer stitch - for example, instead of a 2.5 stitch length, move to a 3 stitch length to give a more professional look. Have an experiment on some scrap fabric and see which you prefer.
Combating Thicker Seams
Sometimes your sewing machine may not cope so well with thicker seams and result in uneven stitches.
A hump jumper or a wedge of paper will help your machine cope with some of the thicker seams that you might get when sewing with oilskin or other thicker fabrics like denim. We have a handy free sewing tutorial which shows you had to use this handy tool.
Using Heat on Oilskin to Press Seams
The BIGGEST difference between oilskin and a regular cotton fabric is that you can’t wash it or use a hot iron on it.
We go into a lot more depth on our Oilskin FAQ page. If you would like to find out more, we explore what happens when you do some of these things to oilskin. Our experience is that finger pressing works really well on oilskin to press open the fabric and provides a lovely crisp finish.
Removing Marks from Oilskin
If you do have creases that you don’t like, a hairdryer can reduce them but it is hard to completely remove them. To find out more I tried various different methods on our Oilskin FAQ page.
We always recommend that you please test on some scraps of fabric and see which one works best for you.
You cannot use iron-on interfacing on oilskin, the oil in the fabric means that the interfacing will not stick. However that doesn’t mean it can’t be used if required - you could consider using sew in interfacing; or perhaps interfacing the lining of your project if you are making a bag and using a fabric that is suitable for interfacing.
Looking After your Sewing Machine
In our experience of sewing with oilskin we have never had any problem with it transferring to the machine. However it is always worth cleaning your machine after sewing with oilskin. It is also good sewing practice to change the needle before the next project to ensure any build up of wax doesn't transfer to a different fabric (especially if your next fabric is a delicate one.)
Marking a Pattern on the Fabric.
Marks on traditional oilskin can be used to your advantage. Use pattern weights to stop the pattern piece from moving and then use a blunt tip, like a knitting needle or the back of your scissors to trace on to the fabric. It will leave a mark and then you can use this to cut around. We don’t recommend using tailor’s tacks, as this adds additional holes where you might not want them. Oilskin Transferring to other Fabrics and Hands
After a day spent cutting, sewing and handling oilskin I did find that my hands had residue on them and needed to be washed regularly. It's worth remembering that most of the surface oil will come off during your initial handling of the fabric.
We recommend that oilskin be used for casual bags or garments - to use/wear during times when you are not likely to be wearing delicate or precious fabrics. There is a chance that some of the oil may transfer to delicate and precious fabrics. It took a great deal of rubbing for me to transfer some oil to some scrap muslin so we believe it is a very minor risk.Storing Oilskin
We recommend that you store oilskin separately from the rest of your precious fabric stash. If it is sitting for some time with the weight of other fabrics and/or high temperatures, there is a risk that the oil may transfer to other fabric. Place it in a brown paper bag or separately from the rest of your stash.
When you buy oilskin from us with other fabric at the same time, we package the oilskin separately to avoid any risk of transfer.
Please remember that any methods we share are what we use, we always recommend that you try any of these methods first on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure it is right for you.
SAVE IT FOR LATER....
Hi Daniel. The oilskin base cloth is a cotton canvas, so it has little ease. You can certainly sew garments with sleeves, however we would recommend you avoid styles that need to have the sleeve head eased to any great degree.
Is it possible invisibly ease oilskin? In the sense of easing a sleeve into an armscye?
Hi Lisa, I think that a patch is probably the best bet for what you are doing! Without seeing the hole, and knowing exactly what you are looking at, I think that a patch over the top of hole will do the job on the exterior will work, depending on whether it is lined or not? But what I would recommend is folding over the edges of the oilcloth patch to prevent fraying and stitching it down. If you would like to discuss it further with us then feel free to give us a call! Thanks Caroline
Thank you for your tips on working with oilskin. I’m about to charge into the unknown territory of making a huge repair to my husband’s oilskin duster/coat. He got too close to a heater last Winter and burned a hole in the bottom of his duster. I have the daunting task of repairing/patching said “hole”! He says it doesn’t need to be pretty, just just make it go away… thanks?!? My question is… do you have any idea how, or any tips on how to do this? I’m just going to jump in and treat it very much like a jean patch… I think! Lol@myself! Any thoughts are appreciated! Thank you!
Hi Robyn, thanks for the query. Because of the nature of oilskin it isn’t possible to seal the seams with sealing tape as it just won’t stick to the oil. This means that an oilskin garment will only ever be water resistant and not water proof. I hope this helps Caroline
How do you seal the seams of oilskin… ie stop the water coming in the seams…. Do you have a sealing tape?
Hi Michael, we do have different colours, take a look on our oilskin page and hopefully you will find something you like – missmaudesewing.co.nz/collections/oilskin! thank you Caroline from Miss Maude
Hi, do you sell oilskin fabric in assorted colours like yellow, red, purple or white?
Hi Jae, thank you for your question. Oilskin doesn’t fray that much, you will get some loose threads as it is a woven cotton but the oil finish on it keeps it together. How you finish a seam, depends on the project and if it is visible or not. If the project is lined then there is no need to finish it, you can just leave it raw. However if the seams are going to be visible an overlocker would be great on it. Or an Overlock stitch on a sewing machine. We have a blog post on seam finishes www.missmaudesewing.co.nz/blogs/miss-maude-musings-1/techniques-to-finish-your-seams that you might find helpful. I hope this helps, Caroline
Hi Julie, This guid was super helpful. Before starting my project, I had a quick question. Do I need to finish edges and seams with oilskin? It seems (pun intended!) like it wouldn’t fray, but wanted to double check. Also, If I do need to finish, should I use the overlocker?
Hi Julie, thank you for your question. If you using a traditional oilskin there is the risk of a small amount of transfer. If you are using a dry oilskin there won’t be any transfer. WIth the nature of cotton sateen it could well show up on highly used areas, such as a shoulder bag, under the arms and elbows, I would think it would show up over time. Not an immediate thing. A cotton poplin would be a bit more durable. If you wanted to use a dry oilskin the cotton sateen would be great! If you have any more questions, please feel free to call one of the girls at the store who would be more than happy to talk you through options. Best wishes Caroline
I am thinking of doing an oil skin coat with cotton Satin lining. Will there be any oil transfer onto the lining and how can I avoid this?