Pattern Pattern Review - The Foreman Jacket by Merchant and Mills

Written by Caroline van Deventer

Bill visited the shop a little while ago, while on holiday with his wife. While chatting to him, we discovered he was a keen sewer and had sewn for both himself, his wife and his grandkids. He is a beautiful sewer and kindly agreed to sew and review The Foreman Jacket by Merchant and Mills for us.  

About Bill

Bill is in his early nineties and has been sewing for many years.  He grew up during WW2 with a widowed mother who was always sewing for her three children with her Singer treadle sewing machine. The family played around on her machine (much to her annoyance at times) and over the years Bill made cushion covers, curtains, seat covers and a few simple articles.  

After a life of sheep farming in Southland with gardening and woodworking as main hobbies he left the farm to “retire” in Arrowtown. He had a job for many years as a piano player on the TSS Earnslaw steamer on Lake Wakatipu. 

Then a friend of similar age suggested that they should go to a ski jacket making class at the local high school and this rekindled an interest in sewing.

This has continued into retirement living in a small city apartment where he has made many items of clothing for his wife and three generations of family as well as himself.  He certainly had no problems occupying himself during the various lockdowns that Auckland has had to endure. 

This blue shirt made from Miss Maude’s linen is a recent effort - the shirt pattern is one that he has used for years and adapted and changed.

About the Foreman

While originally drafted as a mens pattern, the Foreman Jacket can also be sewn and styled for any gender. It is a great jacket for the transitional seasons (Spring and Autumn) when it is not yet cold enough for a proper winter jacket, but you still need something to keep the chill off.  This is where the Foreman comes into its own. The design of it was inspired by traditional workwear of the 1950’s, it has a boxy cut, a neat square collar, two hip pockets and a breast pocket. This pocket could be optional if you wanted.   

Pattern  -  The Foreman Jacket by Merchant and Mills

Size - 46

Fabric -  6 Wale Cotton Corduroy in Caper

Notions -  Khaki corozo buttons. 

Skill Level - Intermediate

Maker - Bill Purvis

Skills Used - 

Review - 

Bill enjoyed the pattern and said it was easy to understand. He did feel however that the 6 Wale Corduroy was a little too thick for the pattern.  The problem with the bulk was most pronounced in the collar, to counteract the bulk of the corduroy, he used a lighter cotton poplin on the under collar.

He also thinks denim would be a great option for the pattern, but feels that he is not a denim man, which is why he didn’t choose it. 

Because the Corduroy is tricky to iron (it flattens the fibres) Bill did a lot of tacking things down, but other than that enjoyed working with the fabric.  

He would also size down next time as well. 

Conclusion

It was great working with Bill and seeing what fabrics he chose to make his jacket, we sent him a variety of samples to choose from. Despite the fabric being a little too bulky, it looks fabulous and his wife apparently agrees with this as well! If you are careful with the bulk and grade the seams and use substitutes for the under collar there is no reason why you couldn't also use the 6 Wale.  It would be great with a lighter pincord or a heavier linen, such as the Washer Heavy Weight Linen or any of the denims or oilskins.

SAVE IT FOR LATER....