Sewing Pattern Review - The Mini Cuff Top - The Assembly Line
Written and Reviewed by Caroline van Deventer
The Cuff Top Mini along with The Elastic Waist Maxi Skirt Mini are the smallest releases from The Assembly Line with children aged from 3 to 10 years old in mind. The Mini Cuff top is the smaller version of the very popular Cuff Top.
The top has a straight fit, keyhole opening with snap fastener at back and cap sleeves with wide elastic cuffs.
Pattern - The Assembly Line Mini Cuff Top
Size - Size 3
Fabric - Double Gauze Broderie Anglaise - Duck Egg Blue (unfortunately we are now out of this colour way, but have other colours available)
Notions -
- 30mm wide Elastic
- Interfacing Woven White (see comments below - we'd actually recommend using our light weight knit interfacing)
- Gem Button - Storm
Skill Level - Advance Beginner
Maker - Caroline van Deventer
Skills Used -
- Topstitching
- Inserting Elastic
Review -
We have a beautiful range of double gauze fabrics in store at the moment, which are all perfect for little people. Soft, crinkle resistant, breathable and easy to wash and wear. So selecting one of these fabrics seemed the natural choice for this top!
I love the end result of this pattern - with the topstitching and neck facing, it is slightly more involved than a basic tee, but the result is delightful!
I have recommended a couple of small changes to the pattern as I think they help make this top a great balance between kid friendly practicality and fancy occasion wear.
I sewed the top according to the pattern with the exception of the centre back button. Instead of inserting a button tab and snap, I made a rouleau loop to fit a small shank button. This was an easy change to make, I used our loop turner to make the loop and sewed it in the same place as where the button tab would have been. I followed all the instructions as if I was inserting the tab and it came out really well. I then sewed a button to the outside of the top instead of sewing a snap to the inside.
When making it again, I would recommend changing the width of elastic that I used in the sleeves.
The instructions call for a 30mm wide elastic to be inserted, however I think this could be a bit bulky for children wearing the smaller sizes so I experimented with using a 10mm elastic and threaded it through with a bodkin and made the sleeve channel a bit narrower.
I think it makes the sleeve a bit puffier and softer and more comfortable for the younger children to wear.
I used a mid-weight woven interfacing which in hindsight is too heavy for this project. Combined with the top stitching around the neck, centre front and centre back the result is that the fabric has become a little stiff around the neck edge. Using a light weight knit interfacing would have been much better - it would have kept the drape of the fabric while still giving enough body to the facing. Another option I would consider is to use bias binding to replace the facing. That would reduce the amount of fabric around the neckline which may make it more comfortable for the younger wearers in the smaller sizes.
Conclusion
This is a well drafted pattern and makes a great summer top. I think that in the smaller sizes it is worth keeping to the lighter weight fabrics as it could end up being a bit stiff on a smaller scale. When you make the larger sizes this would be less of a concern. All the little details and tips that you expect from Assembly Line are in this pattern and I think it is a lovely little top.
The skirt is the The Assembly Line Mini - Elastic waist skirt Maxi which we have also reviewed!